THE FORGOTTEN MASTERPIECE

Antoni Gaudí, the celebrated mushroom munching, mansion making artisan architect, favourite adopted son of Barcelona, whose crazy creations have launched a thousand easyJets.

 

Gaudi is of course known worldwide for his showboating tour de force works Casa Milà and Casa Batlló in Barcelona city centre, the semi finished sprawling chill out odyssey that is Parc Güell and the still unfinished sky fingering Sagrada Família. All are worth a visit and are easy to find, just follow any passing swarm of camera happy Japanese tourists.

It is easy to get the impression that Gaudi was a one trick pony, but the headline grabbers distract attention from a prolific career that includes everything from the ornate hexagonal paving stones of Passeig de Gràcia and the lampposts in Plaça Reial to major buildings including Casa de los Botines in León, Spain and Casa Calvet in Barcelona.

Eagle-eyed architecture buffs will spot many, Gaudi buildings dotted around Barcelona, distinctive yes, but not quite as spectacular as his landmark later works.  There is one work, a forgotten masterpiece, which is worth going out of your way for a looksee.

Casa Vicens, a startling red brick house on Carrer de les Carolines in Gracia. It is an incongruous explosion of colour in an otherwise drab little street, Moorish in style and built in brick, topped off with galleries, turrets and rows of coloured tiles.

The bad news, that it remains a private residence, so you cannot go for a gawp around the inside. The good news is that is for sale; so if you have a spare €27 million euro lying about and you need a pad in Barcelona contact the estate agents Altadicion.

It has been on the market for a while now, and what with the economy and all that I reckon there might be a little room for negotiation. Try 20 mill in cash and I reckon you might get a bite.  

KEEPING COOL

I am always impressed by the cleverly designed monumental scale sunshades and cooling fountains to be found in public spaces throughout Barcelona.  I have yet to find two the same and they add greatly to the city’s tradition of architectural excellence and eccentricity.

When it comes to protecting people from the elements, it  is the scorching sunshine and not the wet and cold that is the primary concern.

Even in less affluent neighbourhoods these massive constructions can be found at bus stops and other spaces, which in other cities would be heralded as great works of public art. Remarkably, barring the occasional piece of half-hearted graffiti, they remain un-vandalised, a sure sign that the local community values their functional and aesthetic properties. They are often popular gathering points for young and old alike.

My favourite is this one (below) on Passieg de Valldaura, which is stunning in scale and ingeniously combines both a waterfall and shade.

It is in the in the Sant Andreu district, which some say is best avoided.  It  is maybe not the best spot for a night out, but it is as good a place as any to hang out during the day.